The Making of a Bespoke Shoe

When you come to us for a new pair of bespoke shoes, you will want them to reflect the unique Foster & Son character for which we are so well known, but our objective is to make something that is uniquely yours.

For a first meeting you should allow an hour for us to measure and assess your feet, discuss the models, toe shapes, leathers and decoration that appeal to you.

We then make your last, which gives the shoe its unique shape and personality. The last is hand carved from a block of kiln dried Beechwood or Hornbeam, and is the form on which the shoes will be built. It must incorporate the correct shapes and measurements so as to be comfortable and healthy for you to walk in. Without a good last we cannot make good shoes, but once we have the last correct we can be confident that your shoes will always fit perfectly.

From the last, we cut paper patterns much as a tailor does, and from them we cut the leather components for the uppers. This is called "clicking" from the sound of the sharp knife on the cutting block.

At this point the inner sole is formed, soaked in water, attached to the sole of the last, and left to dry out for a long period so that it assumes the correct shape for you to walk on.

The upper components are now stitched together. This often requires detailed hand work, and is called "closing" the shoe, another highly skilled craft.

When the inner sole is ready, we carve the leather to raise a ridge close to the edge, to which the leather welt will be stitched.

At this stage, the uppers and the inner sole are fitted to the last and stitched together by a skilled shoemaker using flaxen thread that he makes himself. The maker interprets the design effect that the last maker and pattern cutter intend so that the resulting shoe is a unique combination of craft and design inputs.

If this is your first pair, we stop the making before the outer sole is stitched onto the welt, and ask you to try on the shoe to ensure that the last and making are correct. At this stage we are still able to make adjustments.

Once we are satisfied that the fit is correct we proceed to the final stage of making, attaching the sole and heel and then finishing the shoe with meticulous care.